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Congrès Lipids & Cosmetics

4ème édition - 24 & 25 janvier 2024
Cosmetics lives with its times and constantly seeks to reinvent itself as consumer needs and expectations evolve. To the notions of pleasure, well-being and performance must now be systematically added those of the origin of the raw materials used and of naturalness. Moreover, the geopolitical and environmental changes complicate reliable sources of supply. Challenges faced by cosmetics are therefore numerous, mixing sciences, processes, sourcing, regulations, etc.

Since Antiquity, lipids have been the main ingredients used in the formulation of beauty products whether in their natural form of oils, fats or waxes or their derivatives, which benefit from numerous scientific and industrial advances. Their complex, varied and variable composition requires a perfect characterization in order to better understand their impact in formulation and their performance in application, but also allows to maintain a strong innovation process.

To propose to the consumer an high quality, the lipid materials used in cosmetic formulations must present a perfect stability in their composition, their smell and their color and come from cultures and processes of extraction and purification eco-responsible.

As such, the Lipids and Cosmetics congress has been contributing for several years to create synergies between all the necessary skills.


Topic 1 : New lipids raw materials

Topic opens by Daniel Kalnin • UR ADI-Suds ISTOM
New raw materials- New and old challenges

New sources of fats: plants, microalgae and biotechnology 
  • Oils, butters, fats, waxes, etc.
  • Substitution
  • Re(up)cycled raw materials
  • Valorisation of co-products
  • Reuse of ancient lipids
  • Made In France

Harnessing lipids in new ways for the benefit of cosmetic formulation
  • Emollient
  • Texturizing agents
  • Emulsifiers
  • Surfactants

Topic 2 : Lipids and the environment

Topic opens by Kevin Lafaye • EVEA coopérative
Bio and fossil based lipid cosmetic ingredient comparison by life cycle analysis 

Environmental impact 
  • Assessment of the life cycle (ACV)
  • CSR of lipids, green chemistry
  • Traceability
  • Certifications
  • Eco-toxicity; Biodegradability

Sustainable process to obtaining lipids
  • Extraction
  • Green chemistry, sustainable chemistry
  • Adaptation of crops to climate change
  • Cultures and Climat 

Topic 3 : Physiological and cosmetic performance of lipids

Topic opens by Fabien Merlaud & Christina Chao STEARINERIE DUBOIS 
Esters: when sensoriality meets functionality thanks to Green Chemistry

Skin and hair protection 
  • Sensitive skin
  • Skin with a tendency to atopic skin
  • UV, free radicals, pollution

Improvement in the sensory qualities of formulations by lipids
  • Impact of lipid type
  • Product handling / longer-lasting / optical effects
  • Artificial Intelligence (AI)

Impact of foods containing lipids on skin and hair
  • Food supplements & skin 
  • In&Out
  • Nutraceuticals 

Topic 4 : Innovations in the formulation of lipids

Topic opens by Anne-Laure Fameau • INRAE
Back to the future: Fatty acids, the green genie for intelligent soft materials

Control of the variability of batches of natural lipids 
  • Traceability
  • Progress in the analysis of lipid derivatives

Impact of lipids on the stability of formulations
  • Scent 
  • Oxidation
  • Colour 
  • Crystallisation

Specificity of lipids for innovative formulations
  • Solid cosmetics
  • Substitution of silicones 
  • Original formats 

Interaction of lipid materials with packaging biomaterials
  • Interaction
  • Biomaterials

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